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04 November 2006

Cruising To Mexico

Img_2537 greetings from somewhere at sea. i've been dancing in the disco and my throat is so sore. too much cigarette smoke for this california girl. i am so thankful that my friends decided to pretend they were travel agents and join me on this cruise. my old business partner, tammy, is here. and so is one of the women who was a mom to one of my girl scouts and went on the trip to san francisco with us last year. so that has made things a whole lot more fun. tonight we were all rolling around on the floor of the lobby doing odd cheerleader poses for a professional photographer. now come on, people. it doesn't get much better than that! har!

so it's interesting when you cruise SOLO. you get hit on a lot. wedding rings mean nothing. absolutely NOTHING. and while i like the attention, i also feel just a tad guilty for actually liking the attention. isn't that weird? because dearsweetdave and i have such a very open and trusting relationship. and i honestly LOVE my husband and would never do anything to jeopardize our marriage. but i can be the biggest flirt in the entire world. and well, cute boys paying attention to me...i can't help but pay attention back...just a little bit!

tomorrow we'll be in mexico. it turns out that i'm scheduled for some major tour with the mexico tourism board. who knew? they're escorting me around as their guest. the things that happen to you when you're a travel agent. such a weird world. perhaps i'll actually do my best to pay attention and then write a proper blog entry about everything i see and learn. that will be beneficial for them and maybe even for me if folks are searching for the highlights of mexico tourism.

anyway, i should go to bed. it's not that late, but i want to go running in the morning before we disembark. and we're supposed to disembark by 8:30 a.m. so it means i'll be getting up at my regular puppy hour and running just as if stella were here on the ship with me.

i'm just thankful there's a track to run on. i think i'd go a little crazy if i went for three days without going for a run. especially with all the food they keep shoving my way! oof!

NaBloPoMo links for today:

Daddy Diary Tales
Mommy Guilt
Yoga Gumbo

p.s.  at fifty cents a minute, i think this may be my most expensive blog post EVER.  gah.  royal caribbean makes you pay through the nose for internet access.  what a racket!

06 September 2006

Finding Home In Christiania

Img_1730 that's the only photo that i took while we were in christiania in copenhagen. this is because the folks that call christiania home really prefer that you not take pictures. at all. they often will break your camera if they find you taking pictures.

that's not to say they're a violent sort. not at all, really. christiania is actually like this magical fairy kingdom that sprang from an abandoned military base right in the center of copenhagen. in the early 1970's the abandoned warehouses and buildings were taken over by squatters who called it home. a commune developed, of sorts. and a home for the counter-culture grew and thrived.

it is still an area where drugs like marijuana and hash are readily available, and you can even find mushrooms if you look hard enough. but it is also, at this point, an area that is vibrant with arts and artists and families who are living the communal dream. there are blonde, laughing, happy children running around having the time of their lives.  living a life of love and happiness!

there's no question, at all, that the moment we walked through the gates, i gasped and said, "oh, i could easily live here. this is like home!" and poor dearsweetdave looked to the heavens, and thanked the goddess, that we were in no position to actually move!

02 September 2006

Nakedjen, The Vegtabal Fairy

Img_1681That is Archie.  Who was one of the stars of the wedding.  Well, actually the wedding dinner.  He gave one of the cutest speeches ever at the wedding dinner.  He even wrote a poem for Michael and Mikaela. 

Archie likes to draw.  He likes to draw maps and he likes to draw fairies. 

On the Sunday evening following the wedding, while we were still in Stockholm, DearSweetDave and I joined Archie and his sisters and his dad and Michael's parents and their friends for dinner.  And guess where we went?  You'll never guess.  Or maybe you can tell from this picture? 

We went to TGIFriday's! 

I'll wait while you all pick yourselves up from the floor.  Perhaps a glass of cold water will help to resuscitate you?  I know it is positively impossible to believe that I, Nakedjen, proponent of all that is organic and wholesome, actually ate at TGIFriday's.  And that I did it while on vacation in a foreign country!  I should have my passport revoked immediately.

But it's true.  Steve and the kids wanted to eat at TGIFriday's.  I put up a mild fuss, explaining that there was absolutely nothing on the menu that a girl who doesn't eat cheese or fried things or things with a mother or face could possibly eat, but at the same time my fuss wasn't of Veruca Salt proportions.  There was no stomping of feet.  There was no spitting.  I don't even think I crossed my arms and pouted.  In fact, I think my words were, "Well, I suppose we can join everyone and make it work...or I can find something else to eat later." 

So off we went to TGIFriday's.  Believe me the irony was not lost on me.  We were in Stockholm.  And we were eating at an American chain restaurant that I would never eat in if I were at home.  Pfft.

But Archie saved the day.  He keyed right into my distress and asked all kinds of questions about my quest for vegetables.  Why I needed them?  What kinds I liked?  Why I only ate vegetables and didn't eat hamburgers? 

He and his sisters were also quite intrigued to learn that I was a REAL fairy.  It didn't take much to convince them.  I promised them I had many sets of wings that I had sprouted myself and the only reason that I wasn't wearing them that day was because we had all just been to the wedding and it was important that everyone look at Mikaela and not be concerned about what was sticking out from my back.  So I had purposely left my wings at home in America. 

Archie drew a picture of me, Nakedjen, the vegtabal fairy.  You'll notice that he included in the picture a carrot and a veggie burger.  And that he rated me on a percentage scale for my helpfulness, prettiness, kindness and temper. 

Obviously I was on very good behavior that day, as I only got a 5 for temper.  So despite eating a chicken Caesar salad where I asked them to please hold the chicken and the Caesar (my big bowl of iceberg lettuce), I somehow managed to keep smiling and not ruin the evening for everyone else!  We all know I'm quite capable of doing just that, so like I said, I was just on very good behavior that day.

I did, however, make DearSweetDave promise that it would be our very last meal at an sort of restaurant of that ilk while we were on our vacation.  And I tried to let it go.  Obviously, I didn't completely let it go, because here it is, a month later, and I'm telling all of you about it. 

But I did let it go for the remainder of the trip.  And I won't ever be eating at TGIFriday's ever again.  No matter where I am.  That's much I can promise you! 

31 August 2006

Peace is a Universal Language

Img_1653_1On Sunday, August 6, we were still in Stockholm.  It was the day after the day that M&M became husband and wife.  It was also the anniversary of the atomic bombing by the United States Army Air Forces of Hiroshima. 

It is estimated that 140,000 people died from that attack alone. 

Had I been in Santa Cruz instead of Sweden that day, I would have been participating in rememberance and resistance activities with the SCWIT

I have written about my activities with SCWIT here before and our early morning protests at Lockheed Martin where we gently ask the folks who work there, "What exactly are you doing in there?" 

Of course, I was a long way from Santa Cruz, so I figured that I was just going to participate vicariously through the various activities that the SCWITsters had planned for that day. 

Imagine my surprise when DearSweetDave and I walked out of the Nobel Peace Museum and smack into these women who were staging their very own Hiroshima remembrance peace demonstration?  I went right up to them and introduced myself and told them all about our group in Santa Cruz and that I really appreciated what they were doing since I couldn't be in Santa Cruz that day to participate in their activities. 

Though the women demonstrators spoke very little English and I, of course, spoke no Swedish (with the exception of Hell and Gore!), we still managed to find our common language of Peace.  They gifted me with a silver lapel pin of a dove carrying an ankh in it's beak, their own international symbol of peace.  And they also gave me a poster showing the history of the women's peace movement in Europe. 

I was very touched.  And felt like I had found my comrades.  I may have been thousands of miles away from Santa Cruz, but I was very much at home.  Right at home, indeed.

29 August 2006

Back Blogging

I'm going to be back blogging for a bit.  Perhaps as long as the next 30 days.  We'll see.  My thought is that I will post a picture a day along with a little bit of information about my/our trip.  And perhaps, with any luck, over the course of the next few weeks, you'll all get at least some idea of how our journey was and what we saw and who we met and what we learned and all those kinds of things.

I realize this could be really boring.  But I'm hoping that it won't be really boring.  I'm hoping that at least some of you who happen to land here when you're searching for naked jennifer aniston photos or more information about organic juices from england, will stay just long enough to have a look at the picture from our holiday and read about what it all means. 

Or not.  I suppose the choice, in the end, is always up to you.  I can't make you stay.  I can only give you an offering and hope for the best. 

So today's offering:

Img_2993As I've said here before, we went to Sweden because our dear friends, Michael and Mikaela were getting married.  And we were invited.  I've known Michael for what feels like forever, but if we're going to be honest, I've really known him about eight years or so.  We used to work together back in the dark ages when I was a worker bee at SCO.  I can honestly say that no one else in that entire company made me laugh longer or harder than Michael.  And that laughter was often the only thing that kept me sane while we all toiled away there.

When he declared his intentions of actually marrying Mikaela, I told him that I expected to be invited to the wedding.  Actually, I believe I told him that I expected to be the Best Man.  Being that Michael is a very good brother and rather traditional, he gave that job to his brother, David, and while I actually did rib him about this and pouted for about seven minutes, I did understand. 

The wedding was in a rotunda in Haga Royal Park in the north of Stockholm.  M&M were quite stressed about the weather in the days leading up to the wedding, but I assured them that they didn't have to worry.  DearSweetDave was coming from California and would be bringing Santa Cruz weather with him.  They looked at me like I was quite daft (the weather forecast clearly said cold and rainy!), but Saturday dawned bright and sunny without a cloud in the sky.  A perfect day for a wedding, just as I had promised. 

The wedding itself was positively lovely.  M&M wrote their own vows and each spoke them in their native tongues giving the international crowd who had gathered a real reason to pay attention.  a poem by e.e. cummings was read, rings were exchanged and then it was done.  They were wed. 

We all gathered on the lawn for quite some time for photos and lots of champagne and kissing and laughs.  And then we took a lovely meandering walk through the park to the restaurant where we were all gathering for a celebratory dinner. 

It was at dinner that we learned all about the Hell and Gore. 

In all honesty, it's helan gar.  But when we arrived at our places at dinner, there was a piece of paper with the words to a song on it that said: 

Hell and gore,
shun gop, Father Allan, lallen lay.
Hell and gore,
shun gop, Father Allan lay.
Oh, handsome in the Hell and tar,
hand, Ay Hell are half and four.
Hell and gore -
- Shun gop, Father Allan lay!

DearSweetDave and I were quite perplexed at first.  We thought it was some sort of odd Swedish marriage ritual.  To wish the bride and groom Hell and Gore on their wedding day in the hopes that every day after that could only be better!  And who was this person who was "handsome in the Hell and tar?"  We certainly wanted to know more about that.

We soon learned from our table mates, who were Swedish, that it was just a phonetic translation of one of their most popular drinking songs and that it had been provided to the non-Swedish speakers so that we could participate before we all drank the Elderberry schnapps. 

Well, of course it was!  How positively silly of us to think otherwise!

There was much drinking, much eating, much merriment.  I got to tell my table mates all about Nakedjen and what it really meant (as M&M had actually written my place card as Nakedjen and that meant questions from those seated around me) and Bob, especially, was quite intrigued and agreeable about my philosophy that all bodies are beautiful no matter what size or shape.  (Hi Bob!)

We finally left all the merriment and the disco well after midnight and actually walked from the restaurant back to the nearest T-bana station to find our way back to My's apartment which was our home away from home for all the days we found ourselves in Stockholm.  And what a lovely home it was.  Absolutely perfect. 

We met everyone the next morning for breakfast at Bern's Hotel (the very location where M&M had first met on New Year's Eve so many years ago) and said our goodbye's to the Bride and Groom, but made plans with Michael's parents for dinner later that night.  And then DearSweetDave and I went off to find exciting things to do in Stockholm.  There was a whole city to explore.  And we were emboldened with the Hell and Gore.

 

25 August 2006

Not So Unfortunate Events

hi sweetie,

heathrow was not joking about giving yourself four hours.  i arrived here at 7:00 this morning via the tube.  which was uneventful.  i used virgin's self check-in service and then waited an eternity in their bag drop line.  honestly, there has to be a BETTER way.  it's completely ridiculous the way they manage people at this airport.  if i was in charge....

anyway, i finally got my bag dropped (it was all i had to do!) at 9:20.  should it really take over 2 hours to drop a bag?  i think not. and in the grand scheme of things, okay, i'm just going to keep breathing and realize it's all just how it goes.

but then the line for security was beyond belief.  good grief. it was all the way through the airport, back down the stairs and back to the tube station.  hundreds of hundreds of people!  then i heard someone shouting if anyone had a flight leaving at 10:00 a.m. then they should follow him.  well, i didn't have a flight at 10:00 a.m., but followed him anyway.  this was a good thing, as it let me avoid all the people who were waiting to make sure my hand luggage was the "correct" size.  i'm not joking.  every seven steps was another person with a box that you had to make sure your hand luggage fit into.  and mine didn't exactly fit, so i wanted to avoid those folks at all costs.  made myself invisible and just kept going. 

right through security!  lovely.  that worked out.  once on the other side, i tried to dump the euros (and was denied...ugh!  those things have haunted me all over the place), but did manage to switch my pounds back to dollars and found my way to the gate.  which was a good thing. because guess what?  another security check.  physical.  they literally went through my bag and were quite concerned with both my empty vitamin bottle (i let them just toss that...good grief) and all that glitter. what was it?  where was it coming from?  how did it get there?  was there more?  what was the source....oh goodness.

so anyway, now i am seated, waiting to board.  all systems seem to be go.  one concern is that one of my flight attendants was on the tube with me this morning, sitting right next to me, and she was reading the safety manual with her highlighter.  how wonderful! 

but yes, i'm on my way.  i'll be home soon.  this flight is flight number 19.  i get in at 1:30 or something like that.  i hope you found betsy and perhaps we have a plan.  but whatever i'll just be happy to be home with you.  i'll see you soon!

love and more love,

me

23 August 2006

A Series of Rather Unfortunate Events

Hello, Here's a journal for your enjoyment (or horror) of my trip home that I wrote while on the plane.  I thought it would be easier than telling the sordid tale over and over. Happy reading, David

======================

-------------------- AUGUST 18TH --------------------

The last day of a wonderful two-week visit to Scandinavia.  Jen and I called in the afternoon to confirm my flight from Stockholm to Newark airport, only to learn that the flight had been cancelled due to "technical difficulties."  Something to do with the computer tracking system that told the airplane where to go. The telephone rep. rebooked me on flights from Stockholm to Copenhagen, and then from Copenhagen to Newark.  With my original reservation, I had 5 hours and 40 minutes to make the connection in Newark to San Francisco. The new arrangement meant I would have to fly out of Stockholm at 7:10 am instead of 10:20, but I was scheduled to land in Newark only an hour later than originally planned, so that seemed okay. Jennifer and I congratulated ourselves on catching the problem early.

-------------------- AUGUST 19TH --------------------

I barely slept that night, which is normal for me before a big flight. Then, at 4:30 in the morning, Jen and I got up to dress and get ourselves o the airport. Check in was smooth. We said our goodbyes at the gate (Jen was going back to London for a week before coming home) and I boarded the flight from Stockholm to Copenhagen. It was an early flight, but uneventful. ----- When I landed in Copenhagen, I had to wait two hours in the gate area for the Newark flight information to appear on the departure screen. When it finally did, the screen said, "Scheduled time: 12:20. Expected time: 13:00."  I asked a clerk at the information desk to make sure that the "expected time" was a revised scheduled time for take-off. Yup. So I did the math in my head, and realized that I would still have nearly four hours to make my connection in Newark.  Okay. ----- Now I had basically another hour to burn. I wandered into different shops all around the terminal. I kept walking past this strange kiosk over and over, where a woman just stood there staring at a large screen on the wall and looking completely bored and uncomfortable. After the fourth or fifth wander past, I asked her what she was doing. She was there to demo a computerized display system at the kiosk (connected to that large screen), but unfortunately the demo wasn't even working. She had been there since 7 am, just standing around and doing her best to answer people's questions when they wandered by thinking she was airport information. She wasn't even allowed to sit down. We commiserated about our exhaustion levels, and I helped her answer airport information question, as I had now wandered all around the airport and knew it quite well, and besides I really had nothing better to do. ----- Soon I was bored, so I went to the Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) Transfer Center to ask them if it was possible for them to check me into my United Airlines flight from Newark ahead of time. I was starting to feel a little bit of a time squeeze, and I figured this should be easy for them to do since SAS and United are both "Star Alliance" partners. The woman at the desk was taking anyone who stepped up, despite the fact that many of us were following the clearly posted directions and taking a number. Finally I got annoyed with this, so I walked up and gently asked if she were actually using the ticket numbers or not. She said, "of course," and then she started using them finally. Eventually it was my turn. The woman was actually very friendly and happy to check me through to SFO. That is, until she learned that my SAS reservation was different from my United reservation (we had to make separate reservations because the flight from SFO to Newark - well, to JFK actually, but that's another story - was purchased using frequent flier miles. Good old United.  Since the SAS and United flights weren't really connected, she couldn't do anything for me, and said I needed to deal with it when I landed. ----- I wandered around through a few more stores, and then back to the non-functioning kiosk to hang out for a while and wait. After about an hour of this, I looked up at the departures screen and saw that my expected departure time was changed to 15:00 (that's 3pm for those that don't do the 24-hour clock thing).  Now I was not at all sure of making my connection in Newark.  Because of the new security issues, people were told to show up to the check-in at least 2 1/2 hours before take-off.  I now would have to get my bags from baggage claim when I landed, get through customs, carry my bags from the international terminal to the domestic one, check in, get my bags checked scanned, go through the new obscenely heightened "liquid proof" security, and make it to my gate, and I figured I would have about an hour and a half to do this. ----- So back I went to the Transfer Center, and grabbed my number ticket. This time there were about 70 semi-freaked people waiting in line, and still only one person at the desk helping.  Eventually another clerk showed up, and then one more, but they all worked at a somewhat leisurely pace.  The departures screen now indicated that mine was one of about seven or eight delayed flights. After about 45 minutes, I got to the front and talked to a new desk person.  I explained that I was worried I would miss my connection. She said not to worry because SAS automatically reschedules connections when you miss one due to a delay or cancellation.  I told her my United flight had a different reservation number.  Oh, then I should worry, she said. There was still nothing that she could do about it at her end, however. She tried to check me in to my United flight, but failed. Sorry, she said, and handed me a meal voucher for 75 kroner (about 11 dollars). ----- Back to the info-but-not-really girl.  I asked her if she was about to access the internet from her non-functioning kiosk.  She said no, but pointed me to some nearby stations that took credit cards.  I logged onto one, and send emails to Jen and Joe (who was supposed to pick me up that night in SFO), and also one to Jen's friend Nina in London, in case Jen didn't check her email before they got together that day. Then I went to look for food. 75 kr. doesn't get you very far in an airport, and I didn't have any more money on hand (I had a few Swedish kroner, but of course they don't accept them in a Danish airport), but I managed to find a cafÈ that sold 2 pieces of pizza and a medium soda for 55.  What a deal!  Throw in a bottle of water fo 20, and I had it on the nose. The pizza was pretty mediocre, but at least I was full. ----- A little more wandering. Through the toy store, the souvenir shop (with these awful "little mermaid" replicas - not the Disney one, for those who don't know Copenhagen - of course while I was laughing at them in my mind a little girl came over an grabbed one to buy), and back into the bookstore.  I found a sudoku book that I was tempter to buy - it had 4 x 4 x 4 puzzles, and lots of unusual shapes that you had to apply sudoku rules to.  But really, I think sudoku is something that just sucks up time I could use for writing. So I passed. I also couldn't help glancing up at all of the porn magazines on the racks every time I walked by them. In the US, these magazines are all shrink-wrapped for your protection. Here, they were out an available for your perusal. I felt a little embarrassed for lingering on them, and then angry at myself for being embarrassed.  How am I supposed to be an empowered, fully realized man when I get embarrassed about being turned on by naked women?  I made myself take a magazine down and flip through it, despite having two old ladies standing nearby. Then, because I just flipped through and put it back as quickly as possible, I got annoyed with myself, and made myself take another and flip through it more slowly. First time I've ever read porn for personal therapy. ----- Anyway, where was I? Ah yes, waiting for my 3 o'clock flight.  Well, eventually the time came to go to the gate. It was, as it turned out, on the exact opposite end of the terminal. Nice of them to wait so long to tell me.  It turned out to only be about a 10-minute walk, though. Not too bad.  Midway through there was a passport check for no apparent reason, although in retrospect I think it might have been because I was hanging out in the EU-only section of the terminal and was passing into the truly international part. It was a pretty perfunctory passport check, followed by a less perfunctory hand luggage scan. Having made it past that, I went to the gate, where I discovered a very long, very slow-moving queue.  It seems they needed to do another passport check (less formal this time) and another carry-on scan (more thorough this time) before letting us into the gate waiting area. So I finally got in, and sat down next to the guy who was behind me in line. I asked him if he thought we would really go out at 3:00.  He was skeptical.  I got up to use the bathroom and, on the way back, on a whim, I asked the gate attendant if he could possibly check me onto the United flight. I was doubtful, as was he, but he decided to make the attempt.  He actually unbooked me from my current flight, temporarily, and then attempted to check me all the way through to SFO.  Unfortunately, the system could only provide me with the same SAS boarding pass. Oh well.  I then asked him when the flight would be expected to arrive.  He checked the computer and said 5 pm.  Well, I thought, it would be awfully tight, but as long as nothing else went wrong, I might actually make my connection. Dared I hope? ----- Uh, no.  At about 2:45, the expected departure time changed to 15:15. This made sense, I thought, given the long line of people who still hadn't cleared security.  However the screen also said, "Await info." At 3:30, one of the airline reps came on the com and said that we were going to have to wait five minutes more for an update.  Then, at 3:45 he came on again, and profusely apologized as he explained that our delay was originally due to traffic problems, but that additional mechanical issues had since come up, which finally proved to be too much for the ground mechanics to resolve. So we were changing to a new plane, which was still on its way to the Copenhagen airport from Japan.  He did not know which gate the new flight would leave from, but he did give us a new projected departure time:  18:30. Fuck!  I had now been sitting in the Copenhagen airport for over 6 hours already, and had at least 3 hours to go. I could have gone into the city (only 15 minutes away) and had a wonderful time wandering around.  I could have called our new friend who lives there and had lunch with her.  I could have...then my brain caught up with my new, undeniable reality. There was no way I would possibly make my connection in Newark. ----- We were asked to wait for 15 minutes while some SAS reps ran to the Transfer Center for more meal vouchers.  Eventually they returned, and we were each handed a 100 kr. voucher and sent back into the main part of the terminal.  Of course this meant that I had to again go through passport control and security (got my passport stamped this time - welcome to Denmark!). Knowing I would definitely miss my connection in Newark, I went straight to the Transfer Center. The queue was shorter this time, and it only took me about 10 minutes to see someone.  I asked if they could possibly help me to contact United Airlines to tell them I was going to miss my flight.  This new woman at the desk told me not to worry, because the system would automatically alert United about my delay.  So then I had to explain to her about my separate reservations.  She asked for my SAS boarding pass and looked me up in the computer.  Lo and behold, my SAS booking now showed the United flight also.  I guess the man at the gate did something after all. I had no idea how this was going to affect my actual mileage plus reservation, but this was clearly all the help I was going to get from the Transfer Center on this visit.  Feeling frustrated, I asked her if I was supposed to receive a meal voucher for my additional wait. She conferred with another rep, then handed me a slip with a 150 kr. credit on it.  Whoopie!  If they were going to keep me there all day, maybe I could nickel and dime them to death. ----- Now it was back to the pay-as-you-go computers, where I shot off new emails to Jen and Joe.  At this point I was resigned to spending the night in Newark, and just hoping it wouldn't take me the entire night to get there.  That done, it was off to spend my vouchers. This time I had a little more to spend, so I was pickier about my choice of restaurants. I found a nice-looking tapas place, with a full selection of vegetarian tapas for a combined price of 149 kr.  I sat down, waited patiently for service, and ordered. When the food came, it was surprisingly good - roasted potatoes, asparagus, beets, plum compote, some raviolis - all quite tasty. Satisfied, I went to the bookstore to see what I could buy with my 100 kr. voucher.  I couldn't make up my mind, and I had to pee, so I left to find a bathroom. ----- Coming out of the bathroom, I heard an announcement on the com that I was wanted again in the Transit Center. So off I went for the - what - fourth? Fifth time?  I took another number and got to the desk pretty quickly. I was shuffled over to a woman with a list, who wanted me to stay in a hotel in Copenhagen overnight, and then put me on a plane to Frankfurt in the morning, where they would connect me directly to SFO. I was so tired I almost said yes.  But then I realized that my bags would still probably go to Newark (since they definitely were not checked through to SFO), and I needed to be there to get them or they might be lost for good. The woman assured me that SAS would get my bags to me.  I told her I didn't want to take the chance, and would wait out my current flight. I also couldn't help noticing that there were now fifteen flights (I counted) on the departures board that were either delayed or cancelled.  I didn't expect things to be any better the next day. The woman had already started the paperwork on my rebooking even before she had spoken with me, so at this point I really had no idea if my bags were going to be on the plane, or if they had already been pulled and would be kept in Copenhagen overnight.  She couldn't tell me herself, so I had to just hope that, in the chaos of the day, any half-processed order to pull bags would be lost or ignored.  I grabbed my boarding pass and left. ----- At this point, the departure screens indicated that I should head for the new gate and prepare to board.  So off I went. Realizing along the way that I still had my voucher (and determined to squeeze every penny - er, kroner - out of this ordeal), I ducked into a newspaper stand and grabbed the first things that caught my eyes and interest.  A Playboy magazine and two packs of Menthos.  I want to call it more therapy, but really it was just a spiteful desire to spend the airline's money on something that it was absolutely not intended for. I stuffed the items in my pack and hurried on to the gate. ----- It turned out that I needn't have rushed. The longest line was at the good old passport and security check, but even that went pretty quickly.  The scanning station at the gate was so efficient that I was able to walk right up and put my bag through without standing in line at all.  I found a place to sit at the gate and waited.  I couldn't help noticing as I sat that there were several people with bottles of water and juice. One mother had five half-empty bottles for her five very amped-up children.  So much for the new, anti-terrorist "no liquids" rule. At about 6:20 there was an announcement that - gasp - boarding would begin in about 10 minutes. I joined the shuffle of people lining up and, having chosen my seat well, managed to get myself pretty close to the front of the line.  Of course, since people with children get to board first, those people pushed themselves to the front, and soon I was surrounded by several exhausted and/or sugared-up kids, including the five bottle wielders who proceeded to play "chase and scream" until the game finally ended with a boy of about four tripping head-first into a wall, whereupon I discovered that yes, he could in fact scream even louder. A few minutes later the same person got on the speaker system and announced that the flight was overbooked - not surprising with all of the people like me being shunted from cancelled flights - and that they would offer a voucher worth 600 euros on any future SAS flight to 10 people who were willing to wait until the next day to fly.  At this point I considered my options again, mildly amused/annoyed that I wasn't offered the 600 euros before at the Travel Center.  Then I thought about the insanely long next day of travel such a change would require, not to mention the whole baggage concern, and realized I just wanted to get to Newark that night. So I stayed in line, and so did pretty much everyone else.  We were all in our enclosed space and, with the press of bodies and the unusually high Copenhagen heat, the air was pretty stifling.  Airplane maintenance people kept going in and out of the sliding metal gate doors, giving us a tantalizingly brief gasp of fresh air, but no further information. One of them went out the wrong door, setting off security alarms, and I had visions of us all being moved out of the gate area, but fortunately this didn't happen. At one point, someone in the throng we called a line asked a maintenance person if the door could be left open to get more air in. The maintenance person smiled, but did nothing.  Maybe he just didn't speak English.  Yeah, right. Even the dogs in Copenhagen spoke English. ----- At about 7:00, we were finally allowed on the plane.  I had requested a window seat, hoping I could lean against the wall to sleep.  I was disappointed to discover that this seat was also slightly narrower than the one next to it, and had a metal box taking up half of the foot room. Fortunately I was at least able to grab some extra pillows and make myself more or less comfortable. The Head Flight Attendant, or "Purser" as they are called in Europe, came on the plane's com system and introduced himself and the crew. Then he apologized profusely for everything we had all been through today.  He and the others, and the plane of course, had been scheduled to go to Singapore. No doubt the people on that flight were now stranded in Copenhagen.  Oh well.  The purser said that we could expect to take off within 10 minutes. ----- Ah yes, the infinitely famous "10 minutes."  Somewhere I'll bet you there's a memo to George W. from Karl Rove saying, "this Iraq thing will be in and done in 10 minutes." Half an hour later, the flight attendants were counting seats with worried looks on their faces.  Passengers were paged.  Heads were scratched.  Then the purser came on the com again.  He apologized even more.  Apparently, when our flight was moved to the new plane, passengers and baggage were just transferred without any sort of rebooking.  This would have been fine, except that the new plane was a different model, and had a different configuration than the first one. The head counts between baggage and the ticket check-in didn't match. They counted and recounted heads.  They had everyone pull out IDs and boarding passes.  They paged more passengers.  All the while, the purser was going on and off the com with more apologies.  This was just the way it was in the new age of security, he said.  Bags had to match passengers exactly or the plane couldn't take off.  If this was 10 years ago - "we'd still be here," a passenger quipped.  No one laughed. ----- Eventually it was all sorted out, but in the process they determined that, because of the new seat configuration, there were actually four seats with no one in them.  This was unconscionable, they felt, given that they had overbooked the flight.  So they paged the passengers in the terminal who had elected to stay the night, to find four who wanted to board.  The purser apologized again and again.  In his 35 years with SAS, he had never seen anything like this.  He was embarrassed and ashamed to be wearing an SAS uniform at that moment. It took half an hour for them to track four passengers down and get their bags aboard.  Part of the problem, the purser said apologetically, was that a fire had somehow started in some part of the terminal, and there was some trouble getting the attention of airline employees due to this and other emergencies. Thankfully they managed, and we didn't all unload the airplane because of the fire, which could easily have happened.  It seems ridiculous to unload a plane full of safe people when it's the terminal itself that's on fire, but at that point nothing would have surprised me. As I said, though, it didn't happen, and at 8:47 pm, we were finally airborne. ----- The flight itself was basically uneventful, or so it seemed from my perspective.  The purser kept coming on with announcements about this or that, all laced with multiple apologies.  Finally I wrote him a note that said how much I appreciated his willingness to take responsibility for our ordeal (a quality sorely lacking in US airline service) and also how I recognized that really none of our situation was personally his fault, and he was just doing the best he could under the circumstances.  I suggested that perhaps it was okay now for him to stop apologizing, leave the past to the past, and simply concentrate on making the flight an enjoyable one, as I was also trying to do. I ended by thanking him and his crew for getting us up in the air at long last.  I just signed with my seat number and passed it to one of the flight attendants that happened by, but he came by later and thanked me for the letter.  He said he had posted it in the crew area and it had really made them all feel better about the situation. So that was good.  I also noticed that he stopped apologizing, except for one time when the movie system malfunctioned and he had to reset it.  I watched "A Few Good Men."  That Aaron Sorkin can really write. ----- We hit some kind of storm coming into the States and had a few stomach-churning drops, the worst - of course - at the end when I really had to pee.  But we managed to land safely, at about 11:15 or 11:30.  I raced to the bathroom, then got through passport control without a hitch and made my way to baggage claim.  It was a very long wait. While I was there, the purser came by.  I congratulated him on getting us in safely.  He thanked me again for my positive attitude, and then confided that, during the worst of the storm we passed through, the plane was probably hit by lightning.  He said it was going to be carefully inspected before being allowed to fly again.  Then he left, and soon after - yay! - my bags arrived. ----- I thought about putting the bags on a baggage cart to take them out of the terminal.  One was a duffel bag which had wheels but was incredibly awkward. The other was a way-overstuffed garment bag.  I almost paid for the cart, but couldn't bring myself to spend $3 on something that should really be free (like it is everywhere in Europe), especially in light of all of the time and money I had already spent trying to get home. So I carried my bags through the terminal to the SAS customer service desk to see about a hotel and flight for the next day.  When I got to that desk, there were a few empty cards sitting around. Yes!  Finally a break. Things were looking up. In typical New York fashion, the woman at the counter was much more interested in complaining about her problems than hearing any of mine (she was going on 12 straight hours at that desk).  However she quickly got me settled in a nearby Marriott hotel and booked me on my choice of flights for the morning.  I couldn't stomach anything before 8 am (the only morning United flight was at 6:30), so she put me on a Continental flight going out at 8:40. She also asked me if I planned to have dinner that night.  I looked at my watch - after midnight - grimaced and said not likely.  Oh well, she said, putting back the larger of the two SAS meal vouchers she had pulled out.  Damn.  I would have caught that if I had been more awake. I asked her if I could at least have the $25 voucher for breakfast instead of the $15 one. She said sure. ----- Heading for the train that would take me to the shuttle that would take me to the hotel, I realized that I would still have to be at the airport at least 2 1/2 hours before my flight to make sure I got on, especially since others were being shifted onto the same overbooked flights, and Newark is notoriously crazy even under the best of circumstances. So that meant I was going to get about - sigh - four and a half hours of sleep, even with the later departure time.  I might as well have taken the earliest flight and stayed at the airport all night. But I had made my choice, and at 12:35 I hobbled into the Marriott and handed the desk clerk my voucher.  And the desk clerk said, "Oh shit. Another voucher?  We just turned two away.  SAS only booked 25 rooms with us and we're all sold out."  I pleaded with the guy, but he said there was nothing he could do.  I was about to throw the tantrum of my life right there in the hotel lobby, when miraculously, the supervisor who had overheard our conversation told the clerk to give me a room. Which he did, no problem!  "Non-smoking okay with you sir?"  Did he have another room if I wanted smoking?  I didn't understand, but I didn't ask.  Two more people with vouches came in after me, and I think I heard the supervisor calling SAS as I gratefully headed to my room. When I got there, I couldn't find the bed.  I saw a desk, a TV, a bathroom, a couch - uh oh, did they expect me to sleep on the couch? - and a large closet against one wall.  Finally I opened the closet, and a queen-sized hide-a-bed nearly fell on top of me.  I have never seen one of those in a hotel room in my life, and never expect to again. It was soft enough, though.  A quick phone call to Joe to give him the new flight info, and I hit the bed just before one o'clock.

-------------------- AUGUST 20TH (actually, it was already the 20th for an hour before I went to bed, and 10 hours before that in Stockholm, where I started) --------------------

At 4:45 the wake up call rang, and I bolted upright like a jack-in-the-box.  I had asked for a 4:45 call when I checked in, and then reconsidered in the room and used the system to change it to 5:15.  I guess the desk overrode the system. Oh well, I was up.  I quickly got dressed, and headed downstairs to check out and catch the shuttle.  After paying the phone bill ($12.40 for less than three minutes on the phone!!) I saw that I had five minutes before the shuttle left, so I ran into the "business center" and emailed Jen a very short note.  Then it was back to the beautiful Newark airport. ----- The line literally had five hundred people in it.  I couldn't believe it.  Suddenly, being there, 3 1/2 hours early didn't seem like such a bad idea.  I have to give it to the Continental desk staff, though; they blasted through that line in under 45 minutes.  Before I knew it (well, not quite, but pretty darn quickly), I was being checked in. Since I now had more than 2 1/2 hours to wait for my flight, I asked if I could possibly get put on something earlier.  All flights being overbooked, this didn't get me anywhere, but it probably did get me flagged for security, because when I got to the screening area I was taken aside and I and my bag were thoroughly searched for explosives. They were patting things, opening things, rubbing things with cloths and running the cloths through machines. They were polite, though, and it was over quickly, and then I was in the gate area. ----- I wandered around for a bit, looking for a good place to eat.  At first I only saw bars, and places selling nuts and candy.  Then a couple of coffee shops.  Then, at the end of the terminal, near my gate, were two places that sold pancake-and-egg breakfasts.  Neither looked very good, but... halleluiah!  There in front of me was a smoothie vendor, with Cliff bars, muffins, croissants, veggie booty, Neuman's Own chocolate peppermint cups and more. I calculated how much I could squeeze out of my $25 voucher and started grabbing stuff. Halfway through my order, I asked what my total was, and showed the vendor my voucher.  He looked at me like I had just sprouted a third arm, and said he didn't know what that piece of paper was. He certainly wasn't going to accept it for the food.  Aaugh! I left the food on the counter, and went around to the other vendors. No one would accept an SAS voucher.  Finally someone suggested I go to the Continental desk and see if I could trade it in for one of their vouchers.  I went there, and the woman at the desk explained that the SAS vouchers only worked in Terminal B (the SAS terminal), whereas I was now in Terminal C (the SOL terminal).  Further, since Continental was not an SAS partner, it wasn't her responsibility, and if I wanted to use the voucher I should go to Terminal B and use it there. I smashed my forehead on her counter in frustration (not a good idea when you already have a headache from sleep deprivation). I said it was too far to the other terminal, and besides I would have to go through security again, both on the way and on the way back.  I didn't mention that my boarding pass had been flagged by security, and for all I knew if they saw me jumping terminals they would cavity search me next.  But I did tell her that I was already more than thirty hours into this trip. She finally took pity on me and gave me an $8 voucher that would work in this terminal.  Well, $8 wasn't quite enough to get a full breakfast from the smoothie hut (and damned if I was going to spend my own money), but it was good enough for pancakes and eggs, which is what I got.  After forcing them down, I sincerely wished I had spent the money on a smoothie. ----- That's about it. I waited for a couple of hours at the gate, then boarded the plane and took off right on time.  As I write these words, the landing gear is dropping and the plane is lining up for the runway.  Hopefully the landing will be smooth, both Joe and my luggage will be at baggage, and this will be the end of the last intercontinental trip I plan to take for a very long time. I've been going for over 41 hours, and I probably still have another two before I make it to Santa Cruz.  The first think I will do when I get home is hug the puppies.  The second is send Jen an email. The third is straight to bed.  I can't wait.

31 July 2006

London Just Beats My Heart

So here I am.  London.  Pinch me.  Or actually, don't.  Because if I'm dreaming, I'd like to just keep on dreaming.  It's lovely.

I was wandering around Notting Hill yesterday with Nina, my roommate from college who I wanted to absolutely KISS ALL OVER when she said, quite frankly, "God, Jen, you look absolutely fabulous.  You're one of the lucky ones who looks better now than she did twenty years ago!"  Now, people, doesn't that deserve kisses all over?  It does.  And trust me, Nina doesn't give compliments just to give compliments.  She meant it.  So it felt so good!   

Anyway, we were wandering around Notting Hill together and I just gushed,"God it feels so good to be home!"  And, truthfully, it did.  London really does feel like home for me.  I can't explain it.  But there's a comfort.  A buzz.  A spring that comes back to my walk.  I absolutely ADORE Santa Cruz.  I can't imagine my life without Santa Cruz.  Truly, I can't.  But London.  Ah London.  London just beats my heart. 

Whilst walking from the tube to Nina's new house (and goodness what a house she has, it's truly AMAZING), I happened upon a man from Canada who asked me how to get to Paddington Station.  I gave him directions and then he asked me where I was from because clearly, with my American accent, I was not a local.  I laughed and said, "Oh, Santa Cruz, California!  But I lived here for quite a while..."  and then he asked about whether I could recommend an emergency clinic for his friend who had a terrible sore throat and was worried it might be strep.  I told him I was actually a naturopath and sent him off to Boots with a list of herbal remedies and things to request from the chemist.  He was so grateful.  How cool was that? 

So Nina has had a baby!  Which was really quite a shock to learn as, well, I just never expected Nina to have a baby.  And I met Sasha yesterday and my god is that child ADORABLE.  She's just so charming and sweet and full of personality.  And very much like her mother.  I had so much fun playing with her.  I told Nina when she has the NEXT one (and she might!!) to please fly me over to be the doula (and she will!).  Poor Nina had no idea I was a doula (how did she not know??, bad nakedjen for not telling her) and she hired her own maternity nurse here in London who turned out to be a complete disaster.  All's very well now, but I felt my own sense of guilt that she went through all of that and I wasn't there to help.  People, we've been friends since we were freshmen in college.  I should have been there to help!  I will be there to help next time.

After I left Nina, I stopped by Fresh and Wild, which is Whole Foods here in London.  And guess what I purchased?  Cherries from California.  Now, I will not go into a huge rant about just how very WRONG I think it was that I was able to a) purchase cherries from California in London, and b) that they were CHEAPER here than they are at home, but honestly, there's something just not quite right about our global economy when they are selling organic cherries from California here in London for a price that is CHEAPER than they are at my own health food store that is actually IN California.  Something is not right at all.  And yet, yes, I contributed to the madness by purchasing the cherries because I was so happy to SEE THEM and I wanted them and they were FRESH and edible and well, that's that, isn't it?

I came back to Michael and Mikaela's flat and we went around to Clapham Green where none other than Ben and Jerry were having a festival.  It was sold out, but I convinced M&M that I could get us in by telling the folks that we were on the guest list.  Which is exactly what I did.  We not only got in, we got backstage passes!  How cool are we?  Of course, I'm sure that my American accent certainly helped in this situation, but I just walked up to the window, told them I was with Ben and Jerry's from America and that I was on the guest list.  And then they asked how many were we?  Three!  And off we went.  It was almost TOO easy.
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Of course we all, me included who is not eating dairy or sugar, gorged ourselves on all the free ice cream.  There was WAY TOO MUCH free ice cream.  Eight different kinds.  All being dished out for absolute free.  And there were all kinds of environmental folks there, so I made sure to go around and chat with all of them and that was actually very interesting for me even when I was absolutely FLYING like I had taken seven lines of cocaine up my nose from all the sugar in the ice cream. 
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We also did take advantage of our backstage passes and hung out in the backstage area quite a bit as there were lounge chairs, a bar and private toilets back there.  Nice.  Mikaela was excited because Jose Gonzalez from Sweden was the final act of the day on the festival stage, so we also got to see his concert.  Honestly, it all just turned out so well and was a great way to spend a Sundae afternoon.
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Came home and had a light dinner and then spent the evening sprawled about the living room chatting away about the forthcoming nuptials.  Saturday!!  It's all getting so close.  And the Bride and Groom are getting more and more excited.  I still have five more days to do loads of exciting things in London and must go cram in as much as I can even though I'll be back loads more before I actually fly home.

But as I say, this city beats my heart.  And if it is to continue beating, I need to make sure I put it on major life support.

27 July 2006

Strip Search

Do you think I'll get strip searched at Heathrow if my suitcase contains just the following items?

Glitter
Vitamins
Underwear
Tranquilitea Tincture

Because at this point in time, I'm beginning to think that's about all I'm going to have time to pack.  It's getting down to the wire, folks and quite frankly the care and feeding of Buddha and Stella are a much bigger priority to me than the care and feeding of Nakedjen.  And we all know that if there's one thing about me, it's that I'm resourceful.  So if I show up in London with just a bag full of vitamins and glitter, a quick trip to Camden Market would probably be all a girl like me would need to find plenty to wear during her jaunt around Europe. 

One small kink in that plan, though.

We're kinda broke.  Which doesn't bode well when you're off on the grand European adventure, now, does it?  DearSweetDave has been working his fingers to the bone, but his invoices just haven't been paid in a timely manner so our savings have been depleted (the puppies must be fed and so must we!), and while I know it seems rather FRIVILOUS AND IRRESPONSIBLE to go off to Europe on holiday when things look so grim, it's exactly the kind of thing folks like us do, now, isn't it?  Have you learned nothing whilst reading pages and pages of Nakedjen's blog?

When faced with the most dire of circumstances what does she do? 

She tosses on glitter, she asks the universe for exactly what she wants and she marches forward into the great adventure spread before her. 

So that's what I'm doing.  I'm marching forward.  Going on this adventure.  Glitter and underwear and vitamins, in tow.  Michael and Mikaela are getting married.  I will be there as a witness.  There's no turning back.  For them or for us. 

I'll be back at the end of August.  But I'm taking my laptop with me.  So you'll be hearing tales from me long before then.  Promise.

17 July 2006

Nobel Prize Interruption

so i have every intention of continuing my fair recap. i really and truly do. perhaps i'll work more on it tonight. i really thought i would get it all done this weekend, but this weekend was spent figuring out our trip to scandinavia and thank god we did. good grief. it took us both four hours of nobel prize worthy negotiations on saturday to come up with a two-week itinerary that was satisfactory for both of us. i do believe that when we land in stockholm the nobel folks will be waiting for us at the airport to bestow a prize for maintaining marital peace while in heated vacation negotiations. or they should be.

i have then spent the remaining hours trying to find us sleeping accommodations. which is proving to be nobel prize worthy, as well. good god. did all of europe decide that the first two weeks of august were a GRAND TIME to visit scandinavia. please explain to me why i am having such a difficult time finding available rooms in places like copenhagen and oslo. we're trying to stay in this tiny town called bergen one night and it's proving nearly impossible. we do have a lovely ferry booked from copenhagen to oslo which includes a room with a view! har. we decided we would be civilized and actually sleep above water. double har. there is a sauna aboard that boat. i must now figure out how to book it so dave and i can sweat our way to norway.

we also decided that we're going to go to finland and estonia. why not add two more additional countries to our passports, right? but this means fighting all those europeans for those scarce remaining accommodations. very soon i will be playing the travel agent trump card, i'm sure. but i'm holding out and hoping things will just fall into place.

i will say that the folks who work at rail europe (and they're located in chicago...who knew?) are fantastic. they know their stuff. i called them up to figure out our scanrail passes and not only was able to do that but was also able to book all our train reservations for our entire trip including a deluxe sleeper car for a stint from bergen back to stockholm via oslo. lovely! and the way we booked it means we're only using one day on our rail pass instead of two. again, lovely.

meanwhile, i've also got the migraine from hell. it could be from all these nobel prize worthy vacation negotiations, or it could be from my period or it could be from too much sun. or perhaps a combination of all three. not sure, but it has me wanting to remove my own head with a hatchet. it's really bad. so bad that i made an appointment with my own neurologist for tomorrow morning (and am thankful, at this point, for NEW neurologist as he can actually see me tomorrow morning and old neurologist would not have had an opening until next year!) to ask for some drugs. which we all know he won't have. well, sure, he'll have plenty of drugs. but none that i can actually take. so why i'm going is actually a bit of a mystery. except that my head hurts that much. and i want to find something that WILL work to take with me in my bag of tricks to europe just in case. the worst thing would be to find myself wanting to remove my own head with a hatchet while bopping around on a boat in the fjords and poor dave is holding my head so i can throw up and we're both wondering why we spent all that money to go to scandinavia so we could be miserable. a magic pill might help us avoid that scenario.

i also managed to find lodging in edinburgh. so i'm going to the festival. and i'm VERY JAZZED about that. particularly because last friday i was standing on the beach here in santa cruz tossing the ball for the dogs and chatting with a woman who asked me about the oregon country fair. as i was describing it she asked, "have you been to the edinburgh festival?" and i squealed and told her i was going! and she said, if you like the ocf, you're going to LOVE the edinburgh festival. it's most definitely your kind of place.

can't wait. terribly excited about it. feel so very lucky that i really and truly get to go. oh shit. need to book my plane ticket to edinburgh. like right this minute. i haven't done that yet because i had so much trouble finding a place to actually stay.

so yeah. it's all about travel all the time at chez naked. but it's all good. and if i can get my head to cooperate, it would be even better. i was supposed to go out with dave and a bunch of his friends for a performance last night, but i had to beg off. my head was hurting so much my teeth were throbbing. and instead i came home and went to bed. at 8:30. the dogs thought i was insane.

i really am looking forward to this trip, though. i just can't believe how soon i'm leaving. i have so much to get done before i vamoose. so if i'm a bit scattered around here, that's why. i'm just trying to keep my head on my shoulders and make sure that nothing comes crashing down around us.

oh...and of course mercury is in retrograde. like we all need that right now. in celebration, our plumbing and our oven/stove broke. so i had handydudes in my house all morning fixing things. which they did and i'm quite grateful. it sucks when you can't cook or wash the dishes.

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